Zanzibar: The Moon and the Music

October 30, 2008

by Gemma Pitcher

Zanzibar Moonrise

The radio, wired up to a car battery, crackles into life in the near darkness outside the first house of Kizimbani village, where a small crowd has gathered to listen for the moon.

Above us the sky is pitch black, with not even a star visible. The new moon, if it puts in an appearance tonight, will mean the end of a long hard month of fasting for Zanzibar’s predominantly Muslim population. During daylight hours in the lunar month of Ramadan the faithful may not eat, drink, smoke – or have sex. Only the sick, young children and travellers are exempt. In temperatures that rise to over 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the wavy heat of the afternoons, giving up food and water is no token gesture. From tonight, though, an exhausting twenty-eight days of abstinence is up and the party can begin. Or can it?

If the new moon we’re all waiting for chooses to show her face in the blue-black darkness above us, the celebrations for which planning is already well under way will commence first thing in the morning. Electricity poles are being strung up around fields, girls and women have been pounding red henna leaves and black picco to paint their hands and feet for days now, and every store in town has been full to bursting with last-minute shoppers stocking up on bottles of orange Fanta, cuts of meat, bags of Ugali and starched nylon frocks. The children are worked up to the point of hysteria and the atmosphere of suppressed excitement and anticipation crackles in the hot air.

No moon, however, means that everyone must wait another 24 hours before breaking their fast. Such an important event cannot be left to chance – so not only is everyone on Zanzibar scanning the skies for their own moon, but we’re all gathered eagerly around the nearest radio, waiting for the government to announce a new moon sighting above any part of Tanzania or coastal Kenya. This is the ancient kingdom of the Swahilis, whose modern-day inhabitants still retain the faith brought here by the Arabic races whose fast-sailing dhows once controlled the East African coast and its lucrative slave trade.

As the night wears on it becomes apparent that no moon is to be forthcoming, in Zanzibar or anywhere else. Anticlimax prevails, and another hot, thirsty day goes by before the longed-for sickle appears on cue above the lights of Blues restaurant in the harbour and a cheer goes up from the ragged groups of watchers along the water’s edge. For the next five days and nights, it’s time for a party that promises to put the tourists’ Millennium celebrations of a week ago firmly in the shade. ‘Dancing tonight’ says my friend Hisdori mysteriously to me at lunchtime. ‘Beer tonight’ says his mother, usually the picture of demure matronhood in her kanga and headscarf, but today with a gleam in her eye and freshly painted henna on the palms of her hands.

For most of the year Dole is nothing more than a rather greasy looking patch of ground next to the road which runs to the spice plantation at Kizimbani. Tonight, however, it is lit up with an eerie whitish glow from the dozens of hurricane lamps hanging off the stalls selling tiny packets of cassava chips, plastic hair decorations and big thermos buckets full of dark purple tamarind juice. Kids run in circles playing obscure games, or dance with their siblings to the muted beat of the disco.

As twilight becomes night, a procession of tiny inert bodies – draped over the handlebars of their mothers’ bicycles, or sitting asleep bolt upright at the front of their fathers’ motorbikes – begin to leave the party. Even preparing to go to Dole is an exhausting process – it takes all day and involves plaiting hair, painting henna and climbing gingerly into stiff nylon party dresses that crackle with static electricity. Little boys don’t escape, stepping cautiously around in a variety of outfits and styles, from shiny three piece suits à la Bugsy Malone to full English football strips, complete with socks.

Some boys go the whole hog, dressing up as little girls in a sort of African ‘trick or treat’. Adorned in kangas, with rags stuffed under their skirts for maximum wiggle and scarlet cochineal smeared on pouting lips, they proceed from house to house to drum and dance in return for cake and sweet lemongrass tea.

Now, however, the children glow in the dark like fireflies as they plod up the road behind their parents, drooping with fatigue. Most have had their finery captured for posterity in the tents set up around the periphery of the party by professional photographers, who bustle around arranging family groups like football teams.

Tonight is the last night of the celebrations, and as the children leave the party turns from school fete to rave. Teenagers and twentysomethings are now bounding wildly around to tunes that become increasingly bombastic. Pushing aside the curtain onto the dance floor proper, the noise hits me like a wave as a perspiring DJ plays gangsta rap at top volume and a mass of sweating, pop-eyed lads bound around in Kangol hats and Nike t-shirts.

I spot Hisdori and the gang at the far side of the field, trying to outdo each other in extravagant imitations of Tupac and Puff Daddy. There’s Ali, normally tall, skinny and lugubrious, but tonight waving his spindly arms above his head and grinning insanely. He’s accompanied by Small Brother Of Ali, just as skinny but at 14 not quite as lugubrious or as tall. Iddi, forever Mr Cool, all chin beard and mirror shades, has is own shadow in Small Brother Of Iddi, exuding adolescent attitude also but not quite old enough for the beard.

Seeing me they grab my arms and try to make me dance, but it quickly becomes apparent as I try and fail to match their rhythm that I am the quintessential white person on the dance floor, so I settle for a seat on the sidelines and reflect on the fact that the angry lyrics they’re dancing to could have been written by descendants of the very slaves who once huddled in the caves below the harbour in Zanzibar town, waiting to embark for the New World. No trace of this irony, though, shows on the happy features that are glowing in the light of the hurricane lamps and shouting greetings to passers by without breaking their rhythm.

Just as the music and the dancing reach a sweating fever pitch, the DJ announces a Tarab tune. Tarab is the music of Zanzibar – a wailing vocal over a beat that is curiously Arabic and African at the same time, and traditionally only danced by females. The lads on the dancefloor converge on the hapless man, shouting and waving their fists in outrage whilst still moving compulsively to the beat. The MC is unmoved, breaking into English to emphasise his point. “Ladies only pleeese… LADIES ONLY!” The ladies appear, shyly at first but then with increasing confidence as the beat picks up. A stately conga formation begins to wind its way around the dance floor, the girls’ eyes, covered in picco and rendered drooping and sloe-like by infusions of nutmeg juice, glinting under their demure headscarves. The ladies hold up thousand-shilling notes above their heads as they sway along together, a symbol of their families’ wealth and prestige.

The boys, however, are not to be dismissed that easily. They take to the floor, t-shirts draped over their heads to imitate the girls’ kangas, Rizla packets held aloft in place of money, wiggling their rears and rolling their eyes as their conga picks up a giggling victim and tries to hustle her off the dance floor. Helpless with laughter, I’m rolling around the floor when I feel a little hand tugging at mine and a 12 year old voice whispering “Dance, lady, dance!”. I look up at his face, and recognise Hisdori’s cousin, one of the mini drag queens from the village this morning. Who am I to refuse?

Gemma Pitcher

Sauti za Busara 2009

October 30, 2008

Sauti za Busara 2009

Music Festival, Zanzibar

12 – 17 February 2009

The sixth edition of the Sauti za Busara music festival will take place in Zanzibar, 12-17 February 2009; admission is free to all each day before sunset.

Sauti za Busara (Sounds of Wisdom) is an international festival celebrating East African music taking place around the second weekend of February each year in Zanzibar.

Featuring top-quality musical performances by more than 400 established and upcoming artists (40 groups in total), Sauti za Busara has already established itself as one of Africa’s leading music festivals. It’s an event that unites people in celebration.

Confirmed Artists (so far)

Samba Mapangala & Orchestre Virunga (DRC / Kenya)Natacha Atlas (Egypt / UK)Omar Pene & le Super Diamono (Senegal)Msondo Ngoma Band (Tanzania)Nawal (Comoros / France)Culture Musical Club (Zanzibar)Khethi with Kibo Sounds (South Africa / Tanzania)The Moreira Project (South Africa)Comrade Fatso and Chabvondoka (Zimbabwe)Bi Kidude (Zanzibar)TY (UK)AY (Tanzania)Jagwa Music (Tanzania)Jang’ombe Nursery School (Zanzibar)Joh Makini (Tanzania)Elemotho (Namibia)Segere Original (Tanzania)Katapila ”Sangula” Ngoma (Tanzania)Sansa Troupe (Uganda)Best of WaPi (Pan Africa)Mohamed Ilyas & Nyota Zameremeta (Zanzibar)Iddi Achien’g (Kenya)Rachel Magoola (Uganda)Wahapahapa Band (Tanzania)Aron Nitunga (Burundi / Canada)Safar (Zanzibar)Kiumbizi (Pemba)DJ Side (Zanzibar)DJ Yusuf (UK / Zanzibar),  and more to be announced.

We are proud to announce Samba Mapangala has just confirmed he will be performing with the legendary Orchestre Virunga. He is one of East Africa’s best-loved musicians, with a series of hits over the past 25 years, including Virunga, Ahmed Sabit, Vunja Mifupa, Sungura, Vidonge, Dunia Tuna Pita, and Nyama Choma. Samba Mapangala
"Mwanandege" umbrella dancers

Carnival Parade

A carnival and street parade kicks off festivities on Thursday 12th February, featuring a beni brass band, drummers, wanandege (umbrella women), dancers, stilt walkers and acrobats. The parade arrives at Forodhani around 5pm and continues into the Old Fort (our main venue).

African Performances under African Skies

From Thursday through til Sunday, around ten groups perform each day. Big names rub shoulders with upcoming artists. Altogether we have thirty of the best groups of Zanzibar, Tanzania and around East Africa, traditional and modern, acoustic and electric. Plus, another ten groups, from Comoros, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Mali, Senegal, Ghana, Nigeria and UK.

All the music is performed live. Starting in the late afternoon, as the sunshine softens and shadows start to stretch out, and continuing virtually non-stop into the evening, with the final band taking to the stage around midnight.

Sekembuke

Main Venue

The main stage of the festival is situated within Stone Town’s historic Old Fort (on the grassy side) under open skies. The venue is exploding with colour with around twenty stalls selling food and refreshments, African clothing, music and local handicrafts.

The venue is busy every day with locals and visitors of all ages and backgrounds. We see kids and families in the late afternoon, culture vultures through the evening and party people dancing into the night.

Old Fort, Stone Town

Everyone agrees the atmosphere is unique and special, and Sauti za Busara has a reputation as “the friendliest festival on the planet!”

Tickets and Prices

Admission is free to everyone daily from 4pm until sunset. After that you need a ticket or pass. Prices vary for citizens, residents, and visitors. VIP tickets are available for those who prefer seating.

location says it all

Visitor Info

For information about organised tours, flights, accommodation and other useful advice for visitors – please check Visitor Info page – on our website.

Finalé Party

On Tuesday 17 February, we leave town behind and head for Kendwa Rocks, a beautiful beach location on Zanzibar’s north coast. Starting from 4pm, there’ll be DJs, acrobats, and live performances evolving into a fantastic Festival Finalé Party – and dancing till dawn.

Finale Party
Busara Xtra Hey, it’s not just us. With so many people in town all sorts of fringe events, activities and performances are organised by hotels, restaurants and businesses. We call it “Busara Xtra” and we’ll do our best to let you know what’s happening.
See 2008 web coverage at these places:

Food in Tanzania

October 30, 2008

GEOGRAPHIC SETTING AND ENVIRONMENT

Situated in East Africa just south of the equator, Tanzania is made up of a mainland area and the islands of Zanzibar, Pembe, and Mafia. Mainland Tanzania lies between the area of the great lakes—Victoria, Tanganyika, and Malawi (Niassa)—and the Indian Ocean. It contains a total area of 945,090 square kilometers (364,901 square miles), slightly larger than twice the size of the state of California. A plateau makes up the greater part of the country. The Pare mountain range is in the northeast, and the Kipengere mountain range is in the southwest. Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895 meters/19,340 feet) is the highest mountain in Africa. On the borders are three large lakes: Victoria, Tanganyika, and Lake Malawi.

Two-thirds of Zanzibar Island consists of low-lying coral country covered by bush and grass plains. The western side of the island is fertile, and Pemba, apart from a narrow belt of coral country in the east, is fertile and densely populated.

There are four main climatic zones: the coastal area and immediate interior, where conditions are tropical; the central plateau, which is hot and dry; the highland areas; and the high, moist lake regions.

HISTORY AND FOOD

The earliest known inhabitants in Tanzania’s long and colorful past were primarily hunter-gatherers. In addition, Tanzania has had many of years of influence from other parts of the world. In the first five hundred years A.D., vegetables, millet, and sorghum, and fruits and fish were mostly eaten. By A.D. 800, however, Muslim Arabs established trade routes to and from the country. They introduced citrus fruits, cotton plants,

Tanzania

and pilau and biriani (spicy rice and meat dishes), having the greatest effect on the cuisines of coastal regions and the island of Zanzibar. The inhabitants introduced coconut oil and various tools and textiles to the Arabs in return.Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama arrived in East Africa in 1498 and aggressively took control of the coastal regions and trade routes. Da Gama (called afriti, a devil, by locals), who was on his way to the Middle East and India, stopped at present-day Tanzania to rest his men, who were suffering from scurvy (a lack of vitamin C). Chungwa (oranges, rich in vitamin C), relatively unknown to Europeans at the time, were introduced to the ailing crewmen. The Portuguese dominated the region until the Arabs regained control in 1698. Despite nearly two hundred years of rule, the Portuguese left little behind. The introduction of cassava, a root crop that has become an important staple in the Tanzanian diet, and groundnuts (peanuts) were probably their most significant contributions.

The number of East African slaves who were bought to work Tanzania’s plantations increased as the result of the discovery of clove, a key spice in the country’s cuisine. After slavery was abolished in 1873, the British and Germans battled for control over Tanzania (then known as Tanganyika). At first, the British (who introduced tea and boiled vegetables) prevailed, encouraging the cultivation of crops that could be exported for profit. By 1891, the Germans took control. They established coffee and cotton plantations. The success of the plantations, however, diminished during World War I (1914–1918), when nearly 100,000 troops and civilians died as a result of fighting, influenza (flu), and famine. Tanzania became an independent nation on December 9, 1961.

Chai (Tea)

Ingredients

  • 3 to 4 cups water
  • 3 to 4 cups milk
  • 3 to 4 teaspoons tea (plain black is best)
  • Cardamom, ground
  • Ginger, ground
  • Sugar

Procedure

  1. Combine all the ingredients together in a large saucepan.
  2. Add a few pinches of cardamom and a pinch of ginger.
  3. Bring the mixture to a low boil and simmer for a few minutes.
  4. Strain the tea into a teapot and serve immediately.

Coconut Bean Soup

Ingredients

  • 1 Tablespoon oil
  • ½ cup onions, chopped
  • ½ cup green peppers, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon curry powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • 3 Tablespoons butter or margarine, softened
  • 1 cup fresh tomato, seeded and cut into chunks
  • 2½ cups canned kidney beans with liquid (or black-eyed peas)
  • 2 cups coconut milk
  • 3 cups water
  • ½ cup cooked rice
  • ½ cup shredded coconut

Procedure

  1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil and sauté the onions until softened.
  2. Add green peppers, curry powder, salt, pepper, butter or margarine, and tomato, and simmer for 2 minutes.
  3. Add the kidney beans with their liquid, the coconut milk, and water.
  4. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, Stir in the cooked rice and heat for about 2 minutes.
  5. Ladle into bowls. Top each serving with 1 Tablespoon of shredded coconut, and serve.

Serves 8 to 10.

FOODS OF THE TANZANIANS

Most food that makes up Tanzanian cuisine is typical throughout all of East Africa. Meat is not widely consumed in comparison with other areas of the continent. Cattle are normally slaughtered only for very special occasions, such as a wedding or the birth of a baby. Cattle, sheep, and goats are raised primarily for their milk and the value they contribute to social status. When meat is consumed, however, nyama choma (grilled meat) and ndayu (roasted, young goat) are most popular.

The Tanzanian diet is largely based on starches such as millet, sorghum, beans, pilaf, and cornmeal. A meal that could be considered the country’s national dish is ugali, a stiff dough made of cassava flour, cornmeal (maize), millet, or sorghum, and usually served with a sauce containing either meat, fish, beans, or cooked vegetables. It is typically eaten out of a large bowl that is shared by everyone at the table. Wali (rice) and various samaki (fish) cooked in coconut are the preferred staples for those living in coastal communities.

The introduction of various spices by the Arabs is highly evident in a popular coastal dish, pilau. It consists of rice spiced with curry, cinnamon, cumin, hot peppers, and cloves. Matunda (fruits) and mboga (vegetables) such as plantains, similar to the banana, ndizi (bananas), pawpaw (papaya),

Bananas and plantains are among the staples of the daily diet in Tanzania. Here a vendor loads his bicycle with chane za ndizi (bunches of bananas) to take to the market to sell. Cory Langley

Bananas and plantains are among the staples of the daily diet in Tanzania. Here a vendor loads his bicycle with chane za ndizi (bunches of bananas) to take to the market to sell.

Cory Langley

biringani (eggplant), nyana (tomatoes), beans, muhogo (cassava), spinach and other greens, and maize (similar to corn) are frequently eaten, many of which are grown in backyard gardens. Ndizi Kaanga (fried bananas or plantains) is a local dish that is very popular with Tanzanians and tourists alike. In the cities, Indian food is abundant.Chai (tea), the most widely consumed beverage, is typically consumed throughout the day, often while socializing and visiting with friends and family. Sweet fried breads called vitumbua (small rice cakes) are commonly eaten with chai in the mornings, or between meals as a snack. Chapatti (fried flat bread), also served with tea, is a popular snack among children. Street vendors commonly sell freshly ground black coffee in small porcelain cups, soft drinks, and fresh juices made of pineapple, oranges, or sugar cane. Adults enjoy a special banana beer called mbege made in the Kilimanjaro region (northeast Tanzania). Aside from the common serving of fresh fruits or pudding, desserts such as mandazi (deep-fried doughnut-like cakes) are sold by vendors.

Ugali

Ingredients

  • 2 to 3 cups white cornmeal (cornmeal grits, farina, or cream of wheat may be substituted)
  • 2 cups water

Procedure

  1. Heat water in a saucepan until boiling.
  2. Slowly pour in cornmeal, continuously stirring and mashing the lumps.
  3. Add more cornmeal until it is thicker than mashed potatoes (It may resemble Play Dough consistency.) Cook for 3 or 4 minutes and continue to stir.
  4. Serve immediately with any meat or vegetable stew, or any dish with a sauce or gravy.
  5. To eat the ugali, a small amount of dough is torn off, shaped into a ball with a dent in it, and then used to scoop up meat, vegetables, or sauce.
Chapatti is a soft, flat bread that is best enjoyed warm. It is sometimes flavored with chopped onion or other savory additions. EPD Photos

Chapatti is a soft, flat bread that is best enjoyed warm. It is sometimes flavored with chopped onion or other savory additions.

EPD Photos

Chapatti (Fried Flat Bread)

Ingredients

  • 2 cups flour
  • Warm (almost hot) water
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • Cooking oil

Procedure

  1. With very clean hands, mix the flour, salt, and chopped onion with enough hot water to make a smooth, elastic dough.
  2. Coat the ball of dough with oil and roll flat on a floured surface until about ½-inch thick.
  3. Cut the dough into ½-inch wide strips.
  4. Roll the strips of dough into spirals and let them rest on a floured surface.
  5. Roll each spiral into a round, flat pancake, about ¼-inch thick.
  6. Cook over a medium to high heat griddle or frying pan.
  7. Fry the first side without oil, just until the dough sets.
  8. Turn over and lift one side enough to pour 1 teaspoon of cooking oil underneath.
  9. Turn and press the chapatti gently into the oil, with the back of a spoon, so it absorbs the oil evenly and fries to a light golden color. Turn just once.
  10. The chapatti should be soft and supple when finished.

Makes about 8 chapatti.

Mango-Orange Drink

Ingredients

  • 3 cups water
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 1 Tablespoon orange peel, grated
  • 2 cups mango, mashed
  • 1 cup orange juice, fresh
  • ½ cup lemon juice, fresh

Procedure

  1. Heat the water with the sugar and orange peel over low heat until the sugar is dissolved.
  2. Cool down to room temperature.
  3. Add the mango flesh and the orange and lemon juices and mix well. Serve cold.

Makes about 2 quarts.

Ndizi Kaanga (Fried Bananas or Plantains)

Ingredients

  • 8 whole plantains or green bananas, peeled
  • Lemon juice
  • Brown sugar (optional)
  • Butter, melted
  • Nutmeg

Procedure

  1. Melt butter in a frying pan.
  2. Cut and quarter the bananas or plantains.
  3. Dip the banana pieces in lemon juice and place them in the buttered frying pan.
  4. Lightly brown, remove, and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with nutmeg and brown sugar, if desired. (Ndizi is typically not sweetened in Tanzania.)

Serves 8 to 10.

Wali wa Nazi (Rice in Coconut Milk)

Ingredients

  • 2 cups rice
  • 1 can coconut milk plus water to make 4 cups of liquid
  • 1 teaspoon salt

Procedure

  1. Measure 4 cups of liquid (coconut milk and water) into a saucepan.
  2. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Heat the liquid until it boils.
  3. Stir in 2 cups rice. Lower heat, cover, and simmer until all the liquid is absorbed (about 25 minutes).
  4. Serve hot alone or to accompany a main dish.

Serves 8 to 10.

FOOD FOR RELIGIOUS AND HOLIDAY CELEBRATIONS

The people of Tanzania follow a variety of religions. Roughly one-third of the population is Muslim (believers in Islam) and one-third is Christian. Nearly all of the island of Zanzibar and much of the mainland coastal regions consist of Muslims; most Christians live inland. Hinduism and indigenous beliefs make up the majority of the remaining one-third who believe in a specific religion.

The warm Christmas in Tanzania is a special time for Christians. The majority of people are invited to a guest’s house for dinner Christmas night. Pilau (rice dish containing spices), chai, and a chicken, red meat, or seafood dish are usually served. A traditional walk along the beach following dinner may leave some very wet—Christmas falls during East Africa’s rainy season.

Ramadan is probably the holiest time of the year for Muslims. During this month-long observance, neither food nor drink may be consumed between sunrise and sunset, often a difficult responsibility in the country’s warm temperatures. Eid al-Fitr, the feast that ends the month of fasting, is always eagerly anticipated by Muslims of all ages. In expectation of the feast, vendors sell cassava chips and tamarind juice made from the tamarind (a flat, bean-like, acidic fruit), and some rush to the stores to purchase plantains, fish, dates, and ready-made bags of ugali for the long-awaited meal. To make certain the feast can take place (and that Ramadan has ended), many gather around to listen to the radio, hoping to hear that the new moon has officially arrived in the night sky. When it is announced, children often dress up (similar to Halloween in the United States) and walk from house to house for cake and lemongrass tea.

Secular (nonreligious) holidays also produce a lot of excitement. On August 8 each year, Farmers and Peasants Day is celebrated. On this day, the country pays tribute and expresses appreciation to farmers and peasants for helping to feed the country and keep agriculture thriving. Zanzibar, one of the country’s islands, has its own celebration every January 12, marking the anniversary of the island’s independence from Britain.

A Typical Christmas Dinner Menu

Pilau (rice mixed with a variety of spices)

Chicken, grilled lamb, or seafood cooked in coconut

Beans or eggplant

Fresh fruit

Rice or potato pudding

Chai (tea)

On the special day of a Tanzanian wedding, gifts are often given to the bride-to-be by her family so that she is prepared to cook and care for her new husband. A kinu (wooden mortar for crushing grains and vegetables), a kibao cha (coconut grater), a kebao cha chapatti (round table for preparing chapatti), and a upawa (wooden ladle) are examples of traditional gifts. On such a special occasion, mbuzi (roasted goat) is often prepared.

Supu Ya Ndizi (Plantain Soup)

Ingredients

  • 2 or 3 (1 pound) green plantains, peeled
  • 6 cups chicken broth (3 cans of chicken broth may be used)
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

Procedure

  1. Slice the peeled plantains and put them into a blender or food processor with 1 cup of the chicken broth.
  2. Blend them together until smooth and free of lumps.
  3. Pour the remaining 5 cups of chicken broth into a large saucepan. Stir in blended plantain mixture.
  4. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until soup is thickened (about 45 minutes). Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 8 to 10.

Date Nut Bread

Ingredients

  • 1 cup dates, chopped
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 5 Tablespoons butter
  • 1 egg
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ cup nuts, coarsely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Tamarind nectar (juice), made from the acidic tamarind and sold by street vendors in Tanzania, may sometimes be found, sold in cans, in large supermarkets elsewhere in the world. EPD Photos

Tamarind nectar (juice), made from the acidic tamarind and sold by street vendors in Tanzania, may sometimes be found, sold in cans, in large supermarkets elsewhere in the world.

EPD Photos

Procedure

  1. Preheat oven to 325°F.
  2. Boil the water in a saucepan and place the dates and baking soda in a bowl.
  3. Pour the boiling water over the dates and baking soda, stir, and let cool.
  4. In a separate bowl, cream together the sugar, butter, and egg.
  5. Add the salt and flour gradually to the butter mixture.
  6. Add vanilla, nuts, and the date/baking soda mixture. Stir to combine.
  7. Pour batter into a buttered loaf pan and bake for about 45 minutes, or until golden and the top springs back when touched.

Serves 10 to 12.

Sweet Potato Pudding

Ingredients

  • 6 medium-size sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
  • 3 cups milk
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ teaspoon saffron, ground
  • ½ teaspoon cardamom, ground (optional)

Procedure

  1. Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a saucepan.
  2. Drop in the sweet potatoes and cook, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender (can be piered with a fork).
  3. Drain in a colander and return potatoes to the pan.
  4. Stir in the milk, cream, sugar, saffron, and cardamom.
  5. Heat slowly to boiling over medium-low heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon.
  6. Reduce the heat to low, stirring from time to time, and simmer uncovered for about 1 hour, or until the potatoes are reduced to a puree and the mixture is thick enough to hold its shape.
  7. With the back of a spoon, rub the pudding through a fine sieve into a serving bowl.
  8. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate for 2 hours.
  9. Just before serving, sprinkle the top with additional cardamom, if desired.

Serves 6 to 8.

MEALTIME CUSTOMS

Guests are polite and respectful when visiting a Tanzanian home. Loose-fitted clothing is appropriate attire, since most meals are served to diners seated around a floor mat or low table. Prior to the meal, a bowl of water and a towel may be passed around to the diners to wash their hands. The bowl is passed to the next person with the right hand, as the left one is considered unclean. The right hand should also be used to dip into the ugali, which is commonly served in a communal bowl before the main meal.

Goat, chicken, or lamb is likely to be served, for those who can afford it. Most families eat meat only on special occasions, such as a wedding. A wali (rice) dish and a vegetableor maharage (beans), may also be served along with chai (tea). Greens are popular side dishes, and are often prepared with coconut and peanuts (Mchicha) or tomatoes and peanut butter (Makubi). Fresh fruit is the most common after-dinner treat, although sweets such as honey or potato cakes may also be offered. It is acceptable to leave food on a plate at the end of a meal, as this reassures the host that the guest is satisfied.

Eating customs vary throughout the country according to ethnic group and religious beliefs. However, the typical family meal is almost always prepared by the mother and daughters, usually on a wood or charcoal fire in an open courtyard, or in a special kitchen that is often separated from the rest of the house. The midday meal is usually the largest, consisting of ugali, spinach, kisamuru (cassava leaves), and stew, though kiamshakinywa (breakfast) is seldom forgotten. Spiced milk tea and freshly baked bread are popular in the morning. Men and women in Muslim households (about one-third of Tanzanians) often eat separately. Taboos may also prohibit men from entering the kitchen at all.

Only a little over half of all children in Tanzania attend primary school, according to UNICEF. As an added incentive to attend school, foreign countries (such as the United States) are helping to offer free lunches to students during the day. The Tanzania School Health Program aims to ensure child health, including the maintenance of clean water and periodic physical examinations. In addition, the program promotes the growth of school gardens to assist in nutritional education. A typical Tanzanian school lunch may be porridge made of millet, groundnuts (peanuts), and sugar, cooked outside in large kettles over an open fire, often accompanied by milk.

Mchicha (Spinach, Coconut, and Peanuts)

Tanzanians often prepare spinach as a side dish.

Ingredients

  • 4 Tablespoons butter
  • 2 packages (12 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach, thawed
  • ½ cup coconut, grated
  • ½ cup peanuts, finely chopped

Procedure

  1. In a 2-quart saucepan, melt the butter and add the 2 packages of thawed spinach, grated coconut, and chopped peanuts.
  2. Toss lightly until the ingredients are combined, heated through, and all the liquid is absorbed. Add salt and pepper, if desired.
  3. Serve as a vegetable with any meat, poultry, or fish dish.

Serves 8.

Makubi

This dish combines spinach with tomatoes and creamy peanut butter.

Ingredients

  • 2 packages frozen spinach, thawed (or 2 cups fresh)
  • 1 can (16 ounces) tomatoes, chopped
  • Salt, to taste
  • ½ cup smooth peanut butter

Procedure

  1. Combine the 2 packages (or 2 cups fresh) spinach and can of chopped tomatoes in a saucepan and heat until bubbly. Add salt to taste.
  2. Stir in peanut butter and continue cooking over low heat until heated through. Serve.

Serves 8.

6 POLITICS, ECONOMICS, AND NUTRITION

About 40 percent of the population of Tanzania is classified as undernourished by the World Bank. This means they do not receive

Mchicha combines spinach with the sweetness of coconut and the crunchy texture of chopped peanuts. When chopping peanuts by hand (left), always keep your fingers on the top edge of the knife. EPD Photos

Mchicha combines spinach with the sweetness of coconut and the crunchy texture of chopped peanuts. When chopping peanuts by hand (left), always keep your fingers on the top edge of the knife.

EPD Photos

adequate nutrition in their diet. Of children under the age of five, about 31 percent are underweight, and nearly 43 percent are stunted (short for their age).Tanzania is one of the world’s poorest countries and undernourishment is prevalent, especially in children. The young life expectancy age of 42.3 years is mostly due to malnutrition, tropical diseases such as malaria, and very unsanitary conditions. Open sewers, uncovered garbage piles, and contaminated streams and lakes are sources of disease. Although living conditions in larger towns and cities are typically better than in rural areas, unsanitary conditions and malnourishment are widespread throughout both. Childhood deficiencies in Vitamin A (which can cause blindness) and iodine are the country’s most serious malnourishments.

FURTHER STUDY

Books

Asch, Lisa. Tanzania. Lincolnwood, Illinois: NTC/Contemporary Publishing Company, 1997.

Camerapix Publishers International. Spectrum Guide to Tanzania. New York: Interlink Publishing Group, Inc., 1998.

Frey, Elke and Kavid Kyungu. Explore the World: Tanzania. München: Nelles Verlag, 1998.

Lauré, Jason and Ettagale Blauer. Tanzania. Canada: Children’s Press, 1994.

Tanzania, Zanzibar & Pemba. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 1999.

Webb, Lois Sinaiko. Holidays of the World Cookbook for Students. Phoenix, AZ: The Oryx Press, 1995.

Web Sites

CultureConnect.com. [Online] Available http://cultureconnect.com/content/travel/gemma1-1.htm (accessed April 4, 2001).

Life in Africa. [Online] Available http://www.lifeinafrica.com/fun/recipes/chapati.htm/ (accessed April 3, 2001).

Recipes of Africa. [Online] Available http://www.balaams-ass.com/journal/homemake/rcpafras.htm (accessed April 3, 2001).

Sallys-Place.com. [Online] Available http://www.sallys-place.com/ (accessed April 3, 2001).

The Swahili Coast Magazine. [Online] Available http://www.swahilicoast.com/ (accessed April 5, 2001).

Unicef. [Online] Available http://www.unicef.org (accessed April 3, 2001).

Zanzibar.org. [Online] Available http://www.zanzibar.org (accessed April 5, 2001).

Tanzanian Safari Lodges

October 29, 2008

Prices shown are high season in US Dollars and are per person per night. As a general rule Safari lodge prices are full board including game viewing activities and park fees, and beach accommodation tends to be on a half board basis

Clicking on the lodge name will bring our page devoted to the lodge including video and pictures which is what we think about the lodge. The link to lodge link brings up the lodge’s own internet site

Lodge Price Link to lodge site Video(s) Picture
Serengeti
CCA Serengeti Under Canvas $905 pppn all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Grumeti $1000 pppn all inclusive Link to Lodge website Download Video
Grumeti Reserves – Faru Faru $950 per person per night all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download video
Grumeti Reserves – Sabora $950 per person per night all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download video
Grumeti Reserves – Sasakwa $1500 per person per night all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download video
Kirawira $850 pppn all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Kleins $1,000 pppn all inclusive Link to Lodge website Download Video
Kusini $765 per person per night including all game viewing activities Link to Lodge Website No video
Lemala Serengeti $600pppn full board basis Link to Lodge website No video
Mbalageti Lodge $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge website Download video
Mbuzi Mawe $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download video
Migration Camp $895 pppn all inclusive including park fees Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Ndutu Lodge $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Nomad Nduara $840 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge website Download video
Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp $840 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge website Download video
Olakira $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website No video
Sayari $695 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to lodge web site No video
Serengeti Serena $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Serengeti Sopa $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Suyan $800 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website No video
Ngorongoro Crater
Gibbs Farm $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge website Download video
Lemala Ngorongoro $800pppn full board including game viewing activities Link to Lodge website No video
Ngorongoro Crater Lodge $1,550 pppn all inclusive Link to Lodge website Download Video
Ngorongoro Crater Serena $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Ngorongoro Crater Sopa $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Plantation Lodge $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge website Download video
Tarangire
Kikoti $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website No video
Olivers Camp $692 pppn full board including all game viewing activites Link to Lodge website No video
Swala $765 per person per night all inclusive including all game viewing activities Link to Lodge website No video
Tarangire Sopa $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Tarangire Treetops $895 per person per night fully inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Lake Manyara
Kirurumu $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Lake Manyara Serena $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board Link to lodge web site Download Video
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge $985 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge website No video
Selous
Beho Beho $1,090 pppn an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Kiba Point $7405 a night (private use only) all inclusive basis Link to Lodge website Download video
Lake Manze $410 pppn full board incl all game viewing Link to Lodge website Download Video
Rufiji River Camp $389 pppn full board including all game viewing www.rufijirivercamp.com Download video
Sand Rivers Selous $965 pppn on a fully inclusive basis Link to Lodge Website Download video
Selous Impala Camp $575 pppn including all game viewing activites, full board Link to Lodge website Download Video
Selous Safari Camp $795 pppn full board including all game viewing activites Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Ruaha
Jongomero $692 pppn full board including all game viewing activites Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Kwihala EMC $660 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to lodge web site download video
Mdonya Old River $370 pppn on a full board basis Link to Lodge website Download Video
Mwagusi $592 per person per night full board including all game viewing activites Link to Lodge website Download video
Ruaha River Lodge $365 pppn full board including all game viewing activites Link to Lodge Website No video
Indian Ocean Mainland
Amani Beach Club $240 pppn full board basis Link to Lodge website Download video
Lazy Lagoon $150 per person per night, full board Link to Lodge Website No video
Ras Kutani $305 – $350 per person per night, full board Link to lodge web site Download Video
Tides $150 pppn half board basis Link to Lodge Website No video
Zanzibar Stone Town
Beyt al Chai $150 pppn based on 2 people sharing on a b&b baia Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Dhow Palace $110 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge Website No video
Emerson and Green $120 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge website Download Video
Tembo Hotel $110 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge Website Download Video
The Serena Inn $230 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Zanzibar Palace Hotel $150 pppn on a B&B basis Link to Lodge Website Download video
Zanzibar Beaches
Baraza $450pppn half board basis Link to lodge web site No video
Blue Bay $180 pp pn half board Link to Lodge Website No video
Breezes Beach Club $192 to $287 per person per night, half board Link to Lodge website Download Video
Echo beach $190pppn half board basis Link to lodge web site No video
Fumba Beach Lodge $250 to $290 per person per night , half board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Gemma Del Este $231 to $267 per person per night depending on room type, half board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Kilindi No data No link No video No image
Matemwe Bungalows $310 per person per night on a full board basis Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Matemwe Bungalows Retreat $525 per person per night on an all inclusive board basis, no activities included Link to Lodge Website Download video
Pongwe Beach Hotel $120pppn on a b&b basis Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Ras Nungwi $195-$290 pppn half board Link to lodge web site Download Video
Ras Nungwi – The Ocean Suite $495 pppn half board Link to lodge web site Download Video
Shooting Star $150 to per person per night on a half board basis Link to Lodge Website Download video
The Palms $795 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to lodge web site Download Video
Unguja Resort $230 pppn, half board basis Link to Lodge Website Download video
Z Hotel $235 pppn on a half board basis Link to Lodge Website No video
Zamani Kempinski $320 to $380 per person per night, half board Link to Lodge website Download video
Zanzibar Ocean Paradise $180 per person per night, half board Link to Lodge website No video
Other Indian Ocean Islands
Chapwani Island $180 per person per night, full board Link to Lodge Website No video
Chole Mjini $250 per person per night, full board No link Download Video
Chumbe $220 per person per night, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Fundu Lagoon $405 – $610 per person per night Link to Lodge website No video
Kinasi Lodge $320 per person per night, full board Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Mnemba $1,250 per person per night all inclusive Link to Lodge Website Download Video
North Island Seychelles 1,780 Euros pp pn Link to Lodge website No video
Pole Pole $250 per person per night Link to Lodge website Download video
Northern Mozambique
Quilalea $595 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Vamizi Island $850 pppn on an all inclusive basis Link to Lodge website Download Video
Katavi
Chada $660 pppn all inclusive including park fees Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Foxes Katavi Wildlife camp $460 per person per night Link to Lodge Website No video
Mahale
Greystoke $1045 per person per night Link to Lodge website Download Video
Dar Hotels
Oyster Bay No data No link No video
Royal Palm $200 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge Website No video
Arusha Hotels
Arusha Coffee Lodge $220 per person per night on a b&b basis Link to Lodge website Download Video
Moivaro Coffee Plantation $195 per person per night, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge Website Download Video
Mountain Village Lodge $170 per night per person, bed and breakfast Link to Lodge website Download Video