Dar es Salaam: Discovering Tanzania’s Haven of Peace
February 9, 2009
Dar es Salaam, the largest city and commercial capital of
Tanzania is an important stop-over for most visitors to
Tanzania. Once called Mzizima, meaning healthy town,
Dar es Salaam has a history dating back mid 19th century
when the town emerged as a small fishing town. Mzizima
was later named Dar es salaam, meaning ‘a haven for peace’
in Arabic by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar – a name
that has stuck to date. The city is popularly referred
to as Dar in Tanzania .
Located on a massive harbour on the eastern coast of
Indian Ocean, Dar es salaam boasts an atmosphere of
tranquility with enchanting beaches and lively
neighbourhoods. The city’s bustling harbour is the main
port in Tanzania, and is home to the main international
airport in Tanzania; Julius Nyerere International Airport
- located about 13km from the city centre.
Although the city is no longer the administrative capital
of Tanzania, government offices still have their main
base in Dar es Salaam. Diplomatic missions and
non-governmental organisations in the country also have
a presence in the bustling coastal city.
As one of the most cosmopolitan cities of Africa,
Dar es Salaam hosts many peoples, including the 100 or so
tribal groups of Tanzania. None of these groups comprise
more than 10% of the population and this perhaps
contributes to the tranquility the country has experienced
for years. The most numerous groups are the Sukuma of Lake
Victoria, Chaaga of Mount Kilimanjaro, Nyamwenzi of Tabora,
Hehe of Iringa and the Gogo of Dodoma. Arab and Persian
influence is strong in Zanzibar, and to a lesser in Dar es Salaam.
The interaction of Arabs and Bantu Africans resulted in
the Swahili language now widely spoken in Eastern and
Central Africa. Swahili is now the Lingua Franca of Tanzania
although English is widely understood in urban centers.
During German occupation in the early 20th century, Dar es
Salaam was the centre of colonial administration and the
main contact point between the agricultural mainland and the
world of trade and commerce in the Indian Ocean and the
Swahili Coast. Remnants of colonial presence, both German
and British, can still be seen in the landmarks and
architecture around the city.
Upon arriving in Dar es salaam, visitors are greeted by
numerous historical landmarks, including St. Joseph’s
Cathedral, the White Father’s Mission House, the Botanical
Gardens, the old State House and the National Museum that
proclaim their permanent residence in the city centre.
Lutheran Church -probably the oldest building standing on
the city, on the other hand, seems to recount the rich
Christian heritage of Tanzania that dates back 18th century
when the first missionaries set their feet on the country.
Strolling down the Shaaban Robert Street and Samora Street
junction, you will be allured by the incredibly beautiful
peacocks that inhabit this corner of town. And before you
know it you will be at the gate of the imposing National Museum.
The National Museum is a priceless treasure that exhibits
material of cultural, ecological and historical
significance; including a cast of 3.6 million-year-old
hominid footprint. The museum exhibits important
archaeological pieces including fossils of Zinjathropus,
the early fossils of mankind that were discovered at
Olduvai Gorge by Dr. Mary Leaky. The building itself is
remarkable; containing unique sculptures, picturesque tiles
and carvings. The historical structure is surrounded by a
peaceful garden that occasionally hosts concerts and plays.
A stone throw away from the National Museum is the amazing
Botanical Gardens, situated adjacent to the Holiday Inn. The
garden boasts lush tropical flora and is a most ideal place
to relax in the peaceful atmosphere and tropical beauty that
is Dar es Salaam.
After lazing in the garden for an hour or so, head to the
north where you’ll come to Ocean Road. The beaches here
tend to be busy on weekends and holidays; host to weddings,
picnics and romantic strolls though not much of swimming.
If you don’t have time to explore the rest of Tanzania,
don’t miss a visit to the open-air Village Museum
(also referred to Makumbusho, the Swahili word for museum)
located on New Bagamoyo Road.
These well-kept grounds feature 18 furnished traditional
houses from different ethnic groups throughout Tanzania.
In addition, you can watch traditional dance performances
on most afternoons, view a variety of agricultural
techniques, observe artisans at work and refresh yourself in the cafe.
As you move further towards the ocean, you will find
numerous traditional dhows, fishing boats and high-speed
ferries to the neighbouring Zanzibar Island. Equally
fascinating are swaying palm trees on the white sands of
the nearby Kigamboni – a beautiful southern beach that is
only a short ride from Dar es Salaam by ferry. There are a
good number of good Dar es Salaam beach hotels ranging
from budget to luxury which offer many options for swimming and relaxing.
http://www.africapoint.com/hotels/dar_zanzibar.htm?ezsite=56
Next to the ferry terminal on the City Centre side is the
the recently renovated Kivukoni fish market. Boats deliver
their catches directly to the market every morning and here
you can experience the art of bargaining as both sellers and
buyers seek a better price. The fish market is the best spot
to catch a glimpse of life and commerce in Tanzania. Make sure
to experience the traditional food at the coast and Zanzibar.
This is quite good and is based on seafood and rice dishes.
After exploring the suburbs of Dar es Salaam, you may want to
proceed to the nearby attractions that include Bagamoyo,
Bongoyo and Mbudya islands. Located only about an hour north
of Dar es Salaam, Bagamoyo attracts visitors for its pristine
white sand beaches as well as its historical significance.
Bagamoyo, Kiswahili for “lay down the burden of your heart”
or “be quiet my heart” was recently designated as Tanzania’s
seventh World Heritage Site and is the oldest town in Tanzania.
The town was towards the end of the 18th century the capital
for German East Africa. Bagamoyo has one of the most
wonderful white sand beaches of Tanzania.
In the past, the town of Bagamoyo was one of the most
important trading ports on the entire East African coast.
Its port was the penultimate stop of slave and ivory caravans
that traveled on foot all the way from Lake Tanganyika. Once
the caravans reached Bagamoyo, the slaves and ivory were
shipped by dhow to Zanzibar, where they were then dispatched
all over the world.
Today, Bagamoyo is a centre of dhow building in the region
and along the Tanzanian coast. Northwest of Bagamoyo are
several small streets lined with carved doors similar to
those found on Zanzibar and elsewhere along the Swahili coast.
The Kaole Ruins located about five kilometers south of
Bagamoyo are also worth a visit. The ruins consisting of
the remains of the first settlement of the Arabs are the
major attraction that Bagamoyo has to offer. Kaole Ruins
date to the thirteenth century and comprise remnants of two
mosques and several tombs, showing the importance of Islam
in early Bagamoyo.
Miles away from Bagamoyo, about 7 km north of Dar es Salaam,
is Bongoyo Island Marine Reserve. The reserve offers good
snorkeling and diving sites for those who want to explore
the water. Bongoyo reserve boasts beautiful beaches,
secluded islands, and many varieties of marine species. In
contrast to other beaches, Bongoyo is not tide dependent and
so swimming can be done at any time of the day. About 4 km
from the island is Mbudya; an island that have almost the
same characteristics as Bongoyo. The island lies close to
the beach resort and fishing community of Kunduchi and is
accessible by motorboats crossing from the mainland.
A majority of visitors to Dar es Salaam find it worthwhile
to take a southern Tanzania safari tour to Mikumi,
http://www.africapoint.com/tours1/vacation.asp?vacationid=304&ezsite=56
Udzungwa, Ruaha and Selous game reserves. These destinations
comprise the southern safari circuit of Tanzania. Mikumi National
Park is just 4 hours away by car, and Zanzibar is a quick
2-hour ferry ride (or an even quicker flight) away. For
relaxing day trips to nearby islands, transportation can
be arranged at most hotels and travel agents.
Occupying 3,230 sq km, Mikumi carries a variety of
wildlife including elephants, lion,giraffe, impala,
warthog, zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, hartebeest and eland.
Wild dogs- considered an endangered carnivore species -are
found here in good numbers. Other resident animals are
crocodiles, hippos, and monitor lizards.
Birds are most plentiful in the wet season when up to 300
species gather here. Many of these are Eurasian migrants,
exercising to the full, the freedom that comes with wings.
The Mikumi flood plain is the dominant feature of the park,
which is bordered on one side by the Uluguru Mountains and
on another by the Lumango range. Mikumi forms the northern
border of the Selous Game Reserve and is part of a vast
wilderness ecosystem covering 75,000 sq km. Open grasslands
stretch on the plains, while miombo woodlands cover higher ground.
The park is accessible year round- unlike some of the
sanctuaries in the southern circuit. To get to Mikuni from
Dar, you spend 4 hours on road or 1 hour by air. Budget
travelers take a bus ride to park gate, from where game
drives are organised. There is limited accommodation at a
few luxury lodges and tented camps and at 3 campsites. If
you find yourself in Dar on a weekend, this is where you
head to see wildlife.
The 1,990 sq km Udzungwa Mountains National Park is 348 km
west of Dar and 65 km southwest of Mikumi. The mountains
are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains that fall southeast
of Kilimanjaro. The park is unique in Tanzania, having
been created primarily to conserve plant life. The pristine
mountain forest habitat hosts numerous rare plants. There
are six primate species, out of which two species are
endemic – the Iringa red colobus monkey and the Sanje Crested Mangabey.
At the plateau area, you find elephants, lions, hunting
dogs and buffalos, though not in as large numbers as in
some of the other Tanzania parks. Birds also do well here,
and indeed the park ranks as one of Africa’s most important
bird conservation areas. Scientists have in recent times
come across at least four previously unknown bird species.
The best time to visit is over the dry season between June
and October. The hiking trails over the wet season are
slippery, which can be quite a nuisance.
The Ruaha National Park is rightly named after its
lifeblood- the Great Ruaha River. Occupying 12,950 sq km,
it is Tanzania’s second largest national park and its
biggest elephant sanctuary. Home to numerous crocodiles
and hippo, the Great Ruaha draws many thirsty waterbuck,
leopard, buffalo, reedbuck, wild dogs, lion and hyena to
its banks.
Plain animals such as zebra, greater and lesser kudu, sable
and roan antelope, impala and giraffe are found on the
plains stretching from the rivers edge. The topography is
agreeable to hiking and walking safaris are allowed. In
the wet season months of March to April and October to
November the bird population peaks and the park has over
370 bird species, including some Eurasian migrants.
The flora is very diverse and over 1650 plant species
flourish here. The Ruaha has the unique distinction of
having plant and animal life found in both eastern and
southern Africa. The climate here is hot and dry and
temperatures can reach 40°C in October. The Ruaha is
located 128 km west of the central Tanzania town of Iringa.
It was previously inaccessible, but there is now year
round road access.
From Dar, road travel is a backbreaking 10 hours while a
charter flight takes 1 ½ hours. The best time for a safari
is over the dry season- May to December. Then, the Ruaha
River is magnetic to the animals and right at the banks,
the drama of their daily life is on display- feeding,
fighting, courting and mating. The accommodation is
currently limited, but there is a luxury lodge, and a
few self-catering chalets and campsites.
Selous Game Reserve is the star of the southern safari
circuit. The reserve is named after the intrepid Fredrick
Courtney Selous, a celebrated Victoria era explorer and
naturalist. He met his end here in a sideshow of the First
World War. The Great War had spilled over from Europe as
the Germans then ruled parts of today’s Tanzania. Located
500 km to the southwest of Dar, the reserve occupies a
staggering 55,000 sq km – larger than Switzerland- and
is the largest of its kind in Africa.
The Selous was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
in 1982 due to the significance of both its flora and
fauna. This immense wilderness has a diversity of habitats
including savanna woodlands, swamps, open grasslands and forests.
Over 2,100 species of tress and plants have been recorded.
The mighty Rufiji River is the lifeblood of the reserve
and its numerous tributaries and oxbow lakes are ideal for
boat safaris. The wildlife to see here includes buffalo,
hippo, black rhino, lion and wild dog. Elephants in
particular are numerous and are estimated to number over 60,000.
Other inhabitants of Selous are bush back, waterbuck,
reedbuck, impala, eland, giraffe, baboon, zebra, and greater
kudu. Birders will also find a trip to Selous worthwhile –
over 420 species are on record. In the very large game
sanctuaries of the south – Ruaha and Selous in particular,
game is scattered and a slow pace is advised, with at least
3-4 days in each. Photographic safaris can be very rewarding
here. Most visitors take the time to visit to Stiegler’s
Gorge, which also happens to be a spot favoured by leopards.
From Dar, you arrive after a 1-½ hour charter flight or by
traveling for 7 hours by road. Travel by road is not advised,
except for the most adventurous souls. Selous is near the
coast and is just a few hundred feet above sea level. The
climate is hot and humid, particularly between October and
March. Part of the reserve is closed in the wet season
between March and May. The best time to visit is over the
dry season period of June to October. Then on safari you
can walk, boat and ride a 4WD vehicle. Accommodation is
limited to just a few luxury tented and no-frills camps.
Sadani game reserve, located in the north coast about
50km from Bagamoyo, is also worth visiting. Sadani gives
one an experience of the bush at the beach, and the wild
life seen at the reserve including elephants, leopard,
giraffes, lions, buffaloes and zebra. The reserve is,
however, accessible only with special transport arrangements.
Getting to Dar es Salaam, and Tanzania in general, requires
visitors from yellow fever infected areas to obtain yellow
fever international certificate of vaccination. Exemptions
are made for visitors arriving from non-endemic areas such
as Europe, North America, Australia and New Zealand. The
northwestern forest region of Tanzania is considered a
high-risk area for yellow fever.
Visitors are strongly advised to take anti malaria medication
commencing two weeks before travel as malaria is common in
Tanzania. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, polio and
typhoid are also recommended. In addition, all visitors
are required to have a visa except citizens of some African
and commonwealth countries. It is advisable to obtain visa’s
in advance from Tanzania Embassies and High Commissions as
some airlines may require it before allowing you to board.
For citizens of a few selected countries, visas can also be
issued on arrival at Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro
international airports and at the Namanga Gate on the
Kenya /Tanzania border.
Dar es Salaam can be reached through regional hubs at
Nairobi and Johannesburg and to a lesser extent Addis
Ababa. The airport is also accessed from other Tanzania
airports that serve domestic as well as international
flights. These include Kilimanjaro International Airport
and Dodoma airport among many others. There is a ferry
service between Mombasa in Kenya and Dar es Salaam.
Visitors to Dar es Salaam are advised that taxis moving
passengers around the city have no meters and charge a
standard fee per journey inside the city centre. As for
ferries to Zanzibar, there is a choice of 4 boats- a
hydrofoil, a catamaran and 2 ordinary ferry boats. Yellow
fever vaccination certification is a must before boarding
for Zanzibar. A port charge of US$ 5 is added to the boat fare.
And like the rest of Tanzania, Dar es salaam never really
gets cold and light clothing is recommended. Average daily
temperatures hover in the 30°C range with October to March
being the hottest period. Warmer clothing such as sweaters
is however necessary to get you through the evenings and
early mornings if you are heading for the highlands. Short
sleeve shirts, shorts and trouser for men are sufficient
and so are short sleeve blouses, slacks and skirts for the
ladies. Nudity is totally unacceptable in the whole country.
================================
Destination Facts: Tanzania
================================
Fact Sheet with info on: land area, population, capital city
and other major towns, peoples, language, religion,
government, time zones, currency, electricity and weights & measures.
http://www.africapoint.com/destinations/tanzania.asp?ezsite=56
==============================
Travel Basics: Tanzania
==============================
Useful country travel info and tips on: health, visas,
peoples & culture, communications, accommodation, money,
climate, international & local travel, travel insurance,
and what to wear.
http://www.africapoint.com/travel/tanzania.asp?ezsite=56
===========================
Travel Guides: Tanzania
===========================
Tanzania Tourist Board- Official site of the Tanzania
Tourist Board providing the most comprehensive online
source of information on travel to and around South Africa.
Http://www.tanzaniatourismboard.com
Dar es Salaam Travel Guide– Objective information on
Dar es Salaam travel, including restaurants, accommodation and tours.
Http://www.world66.com/africa/tanzania/daressalaam
Tanzanian Safari Lodges
October 29, 2008
Prices shown are high season in US Dollars and are per person per night. As a general rule Safari lodge prices are full board including game viewing activities and park fees, and beach accommodation tends to be on a half board basis
Clicking on the lodge name will bring our page devoted to the lodge including video and pictures which is what we think about the lodge. The link to lodge link brings up the lodge’s own internet site
| Lodge | Price | Link to lodge site | Video(s) | Picture |
| Serengeti | ||||
| CCA Serengeti Under Canvas | $905 pppn all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Grumeti | $1000 pppn all inclusive | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Grumeti Reserves – Faru Faru | $950 per person per night all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Grumeti Reserves – Sabora | $950 per person per night all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Grumeti Reserves – Sasakwa | $1500 per person per night all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Kirawira | $850 pppn all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Kleins | $1,000 pppn all inclusive | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Kusini | $765 per person per night including all game viewing activities | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Lemala Serengeti | $600pppn full board basis | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Mbalageti Lodge | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Mbuzi Mawe | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Migration Camp | $895 pppn all inclusive including park fees | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Ndutu Lodge | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Nomad Nduara | $840 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp | $840 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Olakira | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Sayari | $695 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to lodge web site | No video |  |
| Serengeti Serena | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Serengeti Sopa | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Suyan | $800 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Ngorongoro Crater | ||||
| Gibbs Farm | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Lemala Ngorongoro | $800pppn full board including game viewing activities | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Ngorongoro Crater Lodge | $1,550 pppn all inclusive | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Ngorongoro Crater Serena | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Ngorongoro Crater Sopa | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Plantation Lodge | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Tarangire | ||||
| Kikoti | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Olivers Camp | $692 pppn full board including all game viewing activites | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Swala | $765 per person per night all inclusive including all game viewing activities | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Tarangire Sopa | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Tarangire Treetops | $895 per person per night fully inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Lake Manyara | ||||
| Kirurumu | $650 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Lake Manyara Serena | $700 pppn for a private safari including park fees, full board | Link to lodge web site | Download Video |  |
| Lake Manyara Tree Lodge | $985 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Selous | ||||
| Beho Beho | $1,090 pppn an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Kiba Point | $7405 a night (private use only) all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Lake Manze | $410 pppn full board incl all game viewing | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Rufiji River Camp | $389 pppn full board including all game viewing | www.rufijirivercamp.com | Download video |  |
| Sand Rivers Selous | $965 pppn on a fully inclusive basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Selous Impala Camp | $575 pppn including all game viewing activites, full board | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Selous Safari Camp | $795 pppn full board including all game viewing activites | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Ruaha | ||||
| Jongomero | $692 pppn full board including all game viewing activites | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Kwihala EMC | $660 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to lodge web site | download video |  |
| Mdonya Old River | $370 pppn on a full board basis | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Mwagusi | $592 per person per night full board including all game viewing activites | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Ruaha River Lodge | $365 pppn full board including all game viewing activites | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Indian Ocean Mainland | ||||
| Amani Beach Club | $240 pppn full board basis | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Lazy Lagoon | $150 per person per night, full board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Ras Kutani | $305 – $350 per person per night, full board | Link to lodge web site | Download Video |  |
| Tides | $150 pppn half board basis | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Zanzibar Stone Town | ||||
| Beyt al Chai | $150 pppn based on 2 people sharing on a b&b baia | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Dhow Palace | $110 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Emerson and Green | $120 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Tembo Hotel | $110 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| The Serena Inn | $230 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Zanzibar Palace Hotel | $150 pppn on a B&B basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Zanzibar Beaches | ||||
| Baraza | $450pppn half board basis | Link to lodge web site | No video |  |
| Blue Bay | $180 pp pn half board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Breezes Beach Club | $192 to $287 per person per night, half board | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Echo beach | $190pppn half board basis | Link to lodge web site | No video |  |
| Fumba Beach Lodge | $250 to $290 per person per night , half board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Gemma Del Este | $231 to $267 per person per night depending on room type, half board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Kilindi | No data | No link | No video | No image |
| Matemwe Bungalows | $310 per person per night on a full board basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Matemwe Bungalows Retreat | $525 per person per night on an all inclusive board basis, no activities included | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Pongwe Beach Hotel | $120pppn on a b&b basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Ras Nungwi | $195-$290 pppn half board | Link to lodge web site | Download Video |  |
| Ras Nungwi – The Ocean Suite | $495 pppn half board | Link to lodge web site | Download Video |  |
| Shooting Star | $150 to per person per night on a half board basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| The Palms | $795 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to lodge web site | Download Video |  |
| Unguja Resort | $230 pppn, half board basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download video |  |
| Z Hotel | $235 pppn on a half board basis | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Zamani Kempinski | $320 to $380 per person per night, half board | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Zanzibar Ocean Paradise | $180 per person per night, half board | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Other Indian Ocean Islands | ||||
| Chapwani Island | $180 per person per night, full board | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Chole Mjini | $250 per person per night, full board | No link | Download Video |  |
| Chumbe | $220 per person per night, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Fundu Lagoon | $405 – $610 per person per night | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Kinasi Lodge | $320 per person per night, full board | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Mnemba | $1,250 per person per night all inclusive | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| North Island Seychelles | 1,780 Euros pp pn | Link to Lodge website | No video |  |
| Pole Pole | $250 per person per night | Link to Lodge website | Download video |  |
| Northern Mozambique | ||||
| Quilalea | $595 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Vamizi Island | $850 pppn on an all inclusive basis | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Katavi | ||||
| Chada | $660 pppn all inclusive including park fees | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Foxes Katavi Wildlife camp | $460 per person per night | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Mahale | ||||
| Greystoke | $1045 per person per night | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Dar Hotels | ||||
| Oyster Bay | No data | No link | No video |  |
| Royal Palm | $200 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge Website | No video |  |
| Arusha Hotels | ||||
| Arusha Coffee Lodge | $220 per person per night on a b&b basis | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
| Moivaro Coffee Plantation | $195 per person per night, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge Website | Download Video |  |
| Mountain Village Lodge | $170 per night per person, bed and breakfast | Link to Lodge website | Download Video |  |
 |
African monkey trail – by Kate Humble
January 1, 2008
African monkey trail – by Kate Humble
The pilot turned and shouted above the noise of the engine. “If those animals start to cross the runway, we’ll need to abort the landing.” My husband Ludo and I could only agree – “the animals” were bigger than our tiny plane. This was our introduction to Ruaha, a little-known national park in southern Tanzania. Those who know it rave, not just about the beauty of its landscapes but about the variety and sheer number of animals that live in and wander through this pristine, unfenced wilderness.
We landed on the mud air-strip, coasting past the herd of feeding elephants. Ruaha, normally bone dry, had received its annual rainfall in just a month, and was lush and verdant. The drive to camp turned into a game drive. Male kudu with corkscrew horns and masked faces peered out at us. A herd of buffalo snorted and stamped. A lone lioness, the remains of a young giraffe beside her, rolled and stretched blissfully in the grass.
Mdonya Old River Camp is just that. Camouflage green tents are set along the banks of what was once the Mdonya River, and a larger tent serves as a dining room. The whole lot could be dismantled in 24 hours, leaving few signs it ever existed. The manager, Nick, showed us to our tent and warned: “Don’t leave anything outside after dark; we’re having a bit of a problem with a hyena. She’ll eat anything. Last night she had a go at one of the kerosene lanterns.” And that really is the beauty of this camp. It doesn’t shut out the wildlife – quite the opposite. A month before, a pride of lions killed a buffalo outside one of the tents. “We didn’t have any guests in that tent at the time,” Nick said. “We just put people in the tents farthest away and left the lions to it. They stayed around for a few days. The guests loved it.”
The rain had brought new life to the bush – newborn impala, baby giraffe and tiny vervet monkeys clinging to their mothers. But it also meant that, with food and water everywhere, the game had dispersed. We were at the mercy of chance and every sighting was a treat. Travelling was challenging: vehicles became stuck in treacly mud, and airstrips became unusable. We flew out of Ruaha, dodging rainclouds, heading west. From the window we saw hills become mountains, the bush become forest and then the grey expanse of Lake Tanganyika, the size of England, separating Tanzania from the Congo.
Western Tanzania is largely inaccessible. Gombe is its best-known reserve. Jane Goodall lived there from the early 1960s, studying and making astonishing discoveries about our closest relatives, chimpanzees. Gombe doesn’t really have facilities for visitors, but 200km (125 miles) south is the larger Mahale National Park, home to several groups of chimps. Kyoto University has had researchers there for more than 40 years. Visitors to Mahale’s few tourist camps have a good, although not guaranteed, chance of seeing chimpanzees in their natural habitat, going about their daily business unconcerned by a human audience. I had only seen chimpanzees in captivity. They are big, powerful, extremely intelligent, human enough to make you think you might understand them, animal enough to make them inscrutable. I was drawn to them as much by fear as by curiosity. But before Ludo and I and John and Diana, two Americans also staying at Greystoke Camp, could venture into their territory, we had to pass a test.
Last summer catastrophe struck the chimps of Mahale.
They started dying in alarming numbers of a flu-like disease. Magdalena, a vet who worked at Gombe for years and now runs Greystoke Camp, was part of the team trying to establish where the disease had originated. There was suspicion that the “flu” had been caught from humans, and strict precautions had been established to prevent any recurrence. Researchers and tourists have to stay at least 10m (33ft) from the chimps, and wear masks. Any hint of a cold and you are not allowed in the forest.
Once the aircraft landed on the shores of the lake, we boarded a boat and sailed south. After about an hour we saw a beach, empty apart from an eccentric-looking thatched building, and a small knot of people – our welcoming party. The rest of the camp was hidden beyond the tree line. Behind the beach, the forest: dark, daunting and for the moment off limits.
We spent the afternoon on the lake with Greystoke’s guide, Safe. Ostensibly there to point out crocodiles, hippos and hundreds of bird species, he was also carefully monitoring us: any sign of a cold and we would not be seeing any chimps. Blissfully unaware of this, we were celebrating the sheer joy of being in such a place with a large gin and tonic, all talking at once, so we barely heard Safe’s shout. “Chimp!” he repeated, pointing towards the bank. Disbelievingly, we turned – and there was a black face peering, a little indignantly at us, from a tree. “It’s a wild one, not one from the habituated group,” Safe said. “You’re very lucky. Hardly anyone sees them.” Silent now, we looked from the chimp to each other and back again, hardly daring to believe what we were seeing. Tears brimmed in Diana’s eyes.
Imagine then how we felt the next morning, when, having been given a clean bill of health, we found ourselves 10m from Alofu, the alpha male, lying on his back, arms flung wide, snoozing with a couple of younger males. Pushing through the undergrowth, we came across another little group, a female catching a nap while her baby was entertained by another young chimp.
On our final morning we abandoned breakfast. The trackers had spotted the chimps obligingly close by. We hadn’t seen them the previous day, despite six exhausting, exhilarating hours tracking through the forest. Now we stood, staring upwards as the canopy shook. Leaping bodies crashing through the branches, hooting calls filled the air and made our hair stand on end. As we climbed reluctantly back on the boat to leave, we were joined by one of the camp’s staff wearing a T-shirt with the slogan “98 per cent chimpanzee”: DNA, we agreed, we could all be proud of.
Kate Humble presents Springwatch on BBC Two. Her website www.stuffyourrucksack.com offers information on what to take on holiday to help local communities.
Reproduced from the The Times June 16, 2007
Southern Tanzania
January 1, 2008
Southern Tanzania
It was 1am when something caused me to wake up. Perhaps it was the silver light from the brightest moon I’ve ever seen streaming in through the fly screens. Or maybe the far-off “weeooow” call of a hyena deep in the bush. I decided to get up.
The bed of polished African timber was so big it must have taken me 10 minutes to crawl from the middle to the edge.The smooth floorboards were warm under my feet as I tottered to the rear of my luxurious jungle house.
Squinting through the mosquito mesh towards the lake my view of the water was blocked by a huge boulder. A boulder that I’m sure wasn’t there when I went to bed…And then the boulder moved slowly to the left – accompanied by a rhythmic crunching of fresh grass and leaves.
I groped for my torch. Not 30ft from my back door, a two-ton hippopotamus was busy eating the back garden.Well, it’s better than having to get the lawnmower out, I thought. And, after all, I was in Tanzania, in the heart of deepest, most mysterious and romantic Africa.
My pet hippo trundled off out of view, pausing only to deposit a gigantic pile of poo under the scrambled egg trees.Scrambled egg trees? That’s what the locals call them. And blobs of fluffy scrambled egg is exactly what the tree’s clusters of bright-yellow blooms look like.
And you can guess where they grow, can’t you? That’s right. Near the sausage trees.No, I haven’t been smoking some illegal substance. Although sometimes in this almost undiscovered part of Africa, you might think you have.
There were moments on my visit to the game reserves of southern Tanzania that resembled a Disney extravaganza.The plumage of the multicoloured malachite kingfishers, snatching little tilapia fish from the Rafiji river, certainly appeared digitally enhanced.The lilac feathers of the hyacinth rollers looked exquisite as they flitted from bush to bush. The reds and oranges of the bottlebrush plants pure Technicolor.
I was in Selous, the largest game reserve in Tanzania, in South-East Africa. And if you crave romantic adventure, you love the wild and the wilderness, if you want to live like a king and come face-to-face with the world’s finest beasts, this is the place.
It’s a 10-hour overnight flight from London to the Tanzanian capital of Dar es Salaam. There, I clambered aboard a 10- seater single prop Cessna Caravan.There were no other passengers so the pilot invited me to sit next to him for the 40-minute hop to the Selous Safari Camp.As we taxied down the dirt airstrip in a cloud of red dust, a small herd of giraffe steadily nibbled the fever trees. “They just think we’re a big bird,” said the pilot. He was only half-joking… Some of the Batteleur eagles you will see in Tanzania have a wing span close to that of a small plane.
The camp was just a short ride from the airstrip in a game-viewing Land Rover. Herds of impala skittered and groups of giraffe cantered to one side as we bounced along to the lodge house.At the safari lodge you can be as busy or as lazy as you like. Ask a guide to take you out on the lake that’s teeming with crocodiles and hippos. There’s no danger – unless you trail a hand in the water!
If the animals don’t actually live in the water they all come there to drink. It’s also home to birds, including spoonbill storks and giant fish eagles.Or you could opt for one of the highly civilised Land Rover drives and breakfast in the bush. Your guide will set up a table and director’s chair where you can enjoy hot coffee, cereal, ham, eggs and rolls while tuskers and cheeky warthogs rumble by in the distance.Then, in the evening he’ll serve gin and tonic sundowners by the shore.
Accommodation is fantastic. Limited to a dozen people at a time, the lodge only sees about 5,000 visitors a year. You stay in a traditional village house, with palm frond eaves that virtually touch the ground. Inside, however, it’s like a luxury tent, with floors and furniture made from local hardwoods, and gigantic beds.
There is a limited amount of electricity and the Victorian-style paraffin lamps only add to the romantic atmosphere.Hot water comes courtesy of an outside woodburning stove while dinner is served around a campfire with guests swapping stories around one long table.After four nights, I took a flight two hours north to Jongomero in higher, hillier and more arid terrain.
The camp, a collection of traditional bungalows set around a timber lodge, stands on the banks of a dry river-bed.Game-watching is again by Land Rover but there’s also more contact with smaller creatures. Jackals and bat-eared foxes cropped up everywhere as did monkeys, troupes of baboons and Africa’s smallest antelopes, little Dikdiks, which are about the size of a spaniel.Early one morning, I had an exceptionally rare sighting of a nocturnal anteater as it scampered back to its burrow after a night’s hunting.
Then that evening, as I got ready for dinner, a gennet – one of the smallest of Africa’s spotted cats – sauntered past my back balcony.Like Selous, Jongomero is “open” – no fences – so animals can and do stroll by. A herd of four young male elephants put in an appearance so often the staff nicknamed them “The Jongo Boys”.
One afternoon, rather than walk an extra mile to the nearest waterhole, they tried to drink the swimming pool!When a small herd of zebra got too close they were seen off with hoots and trunk-waving. Dangerous? Not really.The camp’s local guides and guards understand the mood of the animals.
This was demonstrated the following day when my guide Dayo casually announced “We’ve got a puncture” as we watched 200 buffalo at their favourite drinking spot.While the one-ton beasts – considered to be among the most dangerous and unpredictable in Africa – rumbled past us just 30 yards away, Dayo hopped off the Land Rover, jacked it up and changed the wheel, without batting an eye. Guides like Dayo have grown up in the jungle. They know what you can and can’t get away with. I’m astonished how close we get to the lions. But step off the Land Rover and you’d be lunch, for sure.
That was driven home when we came across a boss male, three lionesses and five cubs, faces and whiskers red with the blood of freshly-killed wildebeeste they were feasting on as vultures wheeled overhead.If you fancy a little R&R after your safari adventure the reef island of Zanzibar, once infamous for its slave trade and now better known as one of the world’s great “spice islands”, is just a few miles offshore.There are plenty of resorts along its eastern coast but I chose the Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel on the remote northern tip.
Guests stay in bungalows with fourposter beds and verandahs, while terraced tropical gardens tumble down to a white sand beach on the edge of a coral reef.Service is top-notch and the restaurant and bars are excellent.
The actual village is a 15-minute stroll along the beach. People are poor but friendly and welcome you to the local bars and restaurants. There’s world-class diving and snorkelling and you should check out the Turtle Sanctuary. I went fishing and brought back a 15lb yellowfin tuna which the hotel chef cut into steaks for that night’s barbecue.
Zanzibar has a colonial feel. The capital, Stonetown, seems locked in a centuries old timewarp. I’d also recommend a trip to one of the hidden spice farms, where you’ll see the island’s biggest export – ginger, cinnamon, cardomon, black peppercorns and pungent cloves – being grown.
Ok, this holiday wasn’t cheap but definitely comes under the heading of trip of a lifetime. And the bush camps tend to be full-board basis so all you’ll need is a little extra cash for your bar bill and modest tips.
Most of the Brits who visit Tanzania head for the world-famous Serengetti park, where you’ll rarely be alone. In contrast, at Selous and Jongomero you will rarely see anyone else at all.
Jeff Edwards travelled with Tanzania Odyssey – www.tanzaniaodyssey.com. The company tailor-makes Africa safaris and trips, including three nights at Selous Safari Camp, three nights at Jongomero and, in Zanzibar, four nights at Ras Nungwi Luxury Beach Hotel, and two nights at Beyt al Chai boutique hotel from around £4,000 per person, including all flights. Call 020 7471 8780
Reproduced from the Mirror 27 oct 2007
Grumeti Reserves – Sasakwa Lodge
January 1, 2008
Grumeti Reserves – Sasakwa Lodge
Lodges have come a long way since the early days of safaris, says Lisa Grainger as she selects the best high life amid the wildlife.
Looking through the grainy snaps of my grandparents on safari always makes me smile – and not just because of my grandmother’s leopard-print culottes and ostrich-skin handbag. It’s the absence of comfort: the luggage roped to Land Rovers, the fold-up stools by a fire, the tin mugs, the warm beer, the sausages on sticks.
But then, safari camps in the 1950s were nothing like the African super-camps that have opened in the past year. For a start, they’re not really camps. They’re boutique hotels in the bush, often featuring spas, interior-designed suites, Michelin-star chefs to cook fresh ingredients flown in by private jet, and butlers to deliver it.
It’s not just in South Africa (progenitor of bush glamour) that this sort of safari has evolved. Three months ago in Zambia, two bush houses were opened to accommodate travellers who demand total privacy. In Tanzania, helicopter pads have been built alongside airstrips. In Namibia last year, top American astronomers were flown in to present after-dinner star-talks in the desert. Here are a few of the newest, most exclusive camps on the continent. Prices quoted are per person, per night, on a fully inclusive basis, excluding flights.
Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania
Luxury taken to the utmost. There are just three camps, sleeping a maximum of 56 guests, on this new game reserve and only these visitors have access to the 350,000 acres of grassy plains bordering the Serengeti, the helipad, the 16 polo and thoroughbred horses, the spa, tennis courts, crocquet lawn and the libraries.
Sasakwa Lodge, on the edge of an escarpment, was built in the style of a colonial home – think glossy wooden parquet floors, antiques, grand art, Persian silk carpets and silver, and a private infinity pool with every room. Sabora camp, on the plains, is glam camping taken to extremes. Tents are lined with raw silk, scattered with Persian rugs, and decorated with essentials like wind-up gramophones and silver handmirrors. Beds and baths are adorned with rose petals flown in daily with the seafood.
Reserves of luxury – reproduced from the Telegraph – 21/06/2006 by Lisa Grainger
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