Dar es Salaam, the largest city and commercial capital of Tanzania is an important stop-over for most visitors to Tanzania. Once called Mzizima, meaning healthy town, Dar es Salaam has a history dating back mid 19th century when the town emerged as a small fishing town. Mzizima was later named Dar es salaam, meaning ‘a haven for peace’ in Arabic by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar – a name that has stuck to date. The city is popularly referred to as Dar in Tanzania .

Located on a massive harbour on the eastern coast of Indian Ocean, Dar es salaam boasts an atmosphere of tranquility with enchanting beaches and lively neighbourhoods. The city’s bustling harbour is the main port in Tanzania, and is home to the main international airport in Tanzania; Julius Nyerere International Airport – located about 13km from the city centre.

Although the city is no longer the administrative capital of Tanzania, government offices still have their main base in Dar es Salaam. Diplomatic missions and non-governmental organisations in the country also have a presence in the bustling coastal city.

As one of the most cosmopolitan cities of Africa, Dar es Salaam hosts many peoples, including the 100 or so tribal groups of Tanzania. None of these groups comprise more than 10% of the population and this perhaps contributes to the tranquility the country has experienced for years. The most numerous groups are the Sukuma of Lake Victoria, Chaaga of Mount Kilimanjaro, Nyamwenzi of Tabora, Hehe of Iringa and the Gogo of Dodoma. Arab and Persian influence is strong in Zanzibar, and to a lesser in Dar es Salaam.

The interaction of Arabs and Bantu Africans resulted in the Swahili language now widely spoken in Eastern and Central Africa. Swahili is now the Lingua Franca of Tanzania although English is widely understood in urban centers.

During German occupation in the early 20th century, Dar es Salaam was the centre of colonial administration and the main contact point between the agricultural mainland and the world of trade and commerce in the Indian Ocean and the Swahili Coast. Remnants of colonial presence, both German and British, can still be seen in the landmarks and architecture around the city.

Upon arriving in Dar es salaam, visitors are greeted by numerous historical landmarks, including St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the White Father’s Mission House, the Botanical Gardens, the old State House and the National Museum that proclaim their permanent residence in the city centre. Lutheran Church -probably the oldest building standing on the city, on the other hand, seems to recount the rich Christian heritage of Tanzania that dates back 18th century when the first missionaries set their feet on the country.

Strolling down the Shaaban Robert Street and Samora Street junction, you will be allured by the incredibly beautiful peacocks that inhabit this corner of town. And before you know it you will be at the gate of the imposing National Museum.

The National Museum is a priceless treasure that exhibits material of cultural, ecological and historical significance; including a cast of 3.6 million-year-old hominid footprint. The museum exhibits important archaeological pieces including fossils of Zinjathropus, the early fossils of mankind that were discovered at Olduvai Gorge by Dr. Mary Leaky. The building itself is remarkable; containing unique sculptures, picturesque tiles and carvings. The historical structure is surrounded by a peaceful garden that occasionally hosts concerts and plays.

A stone throw away from the National Museum is the amazing Botanical Gardens, situated adjacent to the Holiday Inn. The garden boasts lush tropical flora and is a most ideal place to relax in the peaceful atmosphere and tropical beauty that is Dar es Salaam.

After lazing in the garden for an hour or so, head to the north where you’ll come to Ocean Road. The beaches here tend to be busy on weekends and holidays; host to weddings, picnics and romantic strolls though not much of swimming.

If you don’t have time to explore the rest of Tanzania, don’t miss a visit to the open-air Village Museum (also referred to Makumbusho, the Swahili word for museum) located on New Bagamoyo Road.

These well-kept grounds feature 18 furnished traditional houses from different ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. In addition, you can watch traditional dance performances on most afternoons, view a variety of agricultural techniques, observe artisans at work and refresh yourself in the cafe.

As you move further towards the ocean, you will find numerous traditional dhows, fishing boats and high-speed ferries to the neighbouring Zanzibar Island. Equally fascinating are swaying palm trees on the white sands of the nearby Kigamboni – a beautiful southern beach that is only a short ride from Dar es Salaam by ferry. There are a good number of good Dar es Salaam beach hotels ranging from budget to luxury which offer many options for swimming and relaxing. http://www.africapoint.com/hotels/dar_zanzibar.htm?ezsite=56

Next to the ferry terminal on the City Centre side is the the recently renovated Kivukoni fish market. Boats deliver their catches directly to the market every morning and here you can experience the art of bargaining as both sellers and buyers seek a better price. The fish market is the best spot to catch a glimpse of life and commerce in Tanzania. Make sure to experience the traditional food at the coast and Zanzibar. This is quite good and is based on seafood and rice dishes.

After exploring the suburbs of Dar es Salaam, you may want to proceed to the nearby attractions that include Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudya islands. Located only about an hour north of Dar es Salaam, Bagamoyo attracts visitors for its pristine white sand beaches as well as its historical significance.

Bagamoyo, Kiswahili for “lay down the burden of your heart” or “be quiet my heart” was recently designated as Tanzania’s seventh World Heritage Site and is the oldest town in Tanzania. The town was towards the end of the 18th century the capital for German East Africa. Bagamoyo has one of the most wonderful white sand beaches of Tanzania.

In the past, the town of Bagamoyo was one of the most important trading ports on the entire East African coast. Its port was the penultimate stop of slave and ivory caravans that traveled on foot all the way from Lake Tanganyika. Once the caravans reached Bagamoyo, the slaves and ivory were shipped by dhow to Zanzibar, where they were then dispatched all over the world.

Today, Bagamoyo is a centre of dhow building in the region and along the Tanzanian coast. Northwest of Bagamoyo are several small streets lined with carved doors similar to those found on Zanzibar and elsewhere along the Swahili coast.

The Kaole Ruins located about five kilometers south of Bagamoyo are also worth a visit. The ruins consisting of the remains of the first settlement of the Arabs are the major attraction that Bagamoyo has to offer. Kaole Ruins date to the thirteenth century and comprise remnants of two mosques and several tombs, showing the importance of Islam in early Bagamoyo.

Miles away from Bagamoyo, about 7 km north of Dar es Salaam, is Bongoyo Island Marine Reserve. The reserve offers good snorkeling and diving sites for those who want to explore the water. Bongoyo reserve boasts beautiful beaches, secluded islands, and many varieties of marine species. In contrast to other beaches, Bongoyo is not tide dependent and so swimming can be done at any time of the day. About 4 km from the island is Mbudya; an island that have almost the same characteristics as Bongoyo. The island lies close to the beach resort and fishing community of Kunduchi and is accessible by motorboats crossing from the mainland.

A majority of visitors to Dar es Salaam find it worthwhile to take a southern Tanzania safari tour to Mikumi, http://www.africapoint.com/tours1/vacation.asp?vacationid=304&ezsite=56

Udzungwa, Ruaha and Selous game reserves. These destinations comprise the southern safari circuit of Tanzania. Mikumi National Park is just 4 hours away by car, and Zanzibar is a quick 2-hour ferry ride (or an even quicker flight) away. For relaxing day trips to nearby islands, transportation can be arranged at most hotels and travel agents.

Occupying 3,230 sq km, Mikumi carries a variety of wildlife including elephants, lion,giraffe, impala, warthog, zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, hartebeest and eland. Wild dogs- considered an endangered carnivore species -are found here in good numbers. Other resident animals are crocodiles, hippos, and monitor lizards.

Birds are most plentiful in the wet season when up to 300 species gather here. Many of these are Eurasian migrants, exercising to the full, the freedom that comes with wings. The Mikumi flood plain is the dominant feature of the park, which is bordered on one side by the Uluguru Mountains and on another by the Lumango range. Mikumi forms the northern border of the Selous Game Reserve and is part of a vast wilderness ecosystem covering 75,000 sq km. Open grasslands stretch on the plains, while miombo woodlands cover higher ground.

The park is accessible year round- unlike some of the sanctuaries in the southern circuit. To get to Mikuni from Dar, you spend 4 hours on road or 1 hour by air. Budget travelers take a bus ride to park gate, from where game drives are organised. There is limited accommodation at a few luxury lodges and tented camps and at 3 campsites. If you find yourself in Dar on a weekend, this is where you head to see wildlife.

The 1,990 sq km Udzungwa Mountains National Park is 348 km west of Dar and 65 km southwest of Mikumi. The mountains are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains that fall southeast of Kilimanjaro. The park is unique in Tanzania, having been created primarily to conserve plant life. The pristine mountain forest habitat hosts numerous rare plants. There are six primate species, out of which two species are endemic – the Iringa red colobus monkey and the Sanje Crested Mangabey.

At the plateau area, you find elephants, lions, hunting dogs and buffalos, though not in as large numbers as in some of the other Tanzania parks. Birds also do well here, and indeed the park ranks as one of Africa’s most important bird conservation areas. Scientists have in recent times come across at least four previously unknown bird species. The best time to visit is over the dry season between June and October. The hiking trails over the wet season are slippery, which can be quite a nuisance.

The Ruaha National Park is rightly named after its lifeblood- the Great Ruaha River. Occupying 12,950 sq km, it is Tanzania’s second largest national park and its biggest elephant sanctuary. Home to numerous crocodiles and hippo, the Great Ruaha draws many thirsty waterbuck, leopard, buffalo, reedbuck, wild dogs, lion and hyena to its banks.

Plain animals such as zebra, greater and lesser kudu, sable and roan antelope, impala and giraffe are found on the plains stretching from the rivers edge. The topography is agreeable to hiking and walking safaris are allowed. In the wet season months of March to April and October to November the bird population peaks and the park has over 370 bird species, including some Eurasian migrants.

The flora is very diverse and over 1650 plant species flourish here. The Ruaha has the unique distinction of having plant and animal life found in both eastern and southern Africa. The climate here is hot and dry and temperatures can reach 40°C in October. The Ruaha is located 128 km west of the central Tanzania town of Iringa. It was previously inaccessible, but there is now year round road access.

From Dar, road travel is a backbreaking 10 hours while a charter flight takes 1 ½ hours. The best time for a safari is over the dry season- May to December. Then, the Ruaha River is magnetic to the animals and right at the banks, the drama of their daily life is on display- feeding, fighting, courting and mating. The accommodation is currently limited, but there is a luxury lodge, and a few self-catering chalets and campsites.

Selous Game Reserve is the star of the southern safari circuit. The reserve is named after the intrepid Fredrick Courtney Selous, a celebrated Victoria era explorer and naturalist. He met his end here in a sideshow of the First World War. The Great War had spilled over from Europe as the Germans then ruled parts of today’s Tanzania. Located 500 km to the southwest of Dar, the reserve occupies a staggering 55,000 sq km – larger than Switzerland- and is the largest of its kind in Africa.

The Selous was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1982 due to the significance of both its flora and fauna. This immense wilderness has a diversity of habitats including savanna woodlands, swamps, open grasslands and forests.

Over 2,100 species of tress and plants have been recorded. The mighty Rufiji River is the lifeblood of the reserve and its numerous tributaries and oxbow lakes are ideal for boat safaris. The wildlife to see here includes buffalo, hippo, black rhino, lion and wild dog. Elephants in particular are numerous and are estimated to number over 60,000.

Other inhabitants of Selous are bush back, waterbuck, reedbuck, impala, eland, giraffe, baboon, zebra, and greater kudu. Birders will also find a trip to Selous worthwhile – over 420 species are on record. In the very large game sanctuaries of the south – Ruaha and Selous in particular, game is scattered and a slow pace is advised, with at least 3-4 days in each. Photographic safaris can be very rewarding here. Most visitors take the time to visit to Stiegler’s Gorge, which also happens to be a spot favoured by leopards.

From Dar, you arrive after a 1-½ hour charter flight or by traveling for 7 hours by road. Travel by road is not advised, except for the most adventurous souls. Selous is near the coast and is just a few hundred feet above sea level. The climate is hot and humid, particularly between October and March. Part of the reserve is closed in the wet season between March and May. The best time to visit is over the dry season period of June to October. Then on safari you can walk, boat and ride a 4WD vehicle. Accommodation is limited to just a few luxury tented and no-frills camps.

Sadani game reserve, located in the north coast about 50km from Bagamoyo, is also worth visiting. Sadani gives one an experience of the bush at the beach, and the wild life seen at the reserve including elephants, leopard, giraffes, lions, buffaloes and zebra. The reserve is, however, accessible only with special transport arrangements.

Getting to Dar es Salaam, and Tanzania in general, requires visitors from yellow fever infected areas to obtain yellow fever international certificate of vaccination. Exemptions are made for visitors arriving from non-endemic areas such as Europe, North America, Australia and New Zealand. The northwestern forest region of Tanzania is considered a high-risk area for yellow fever.

Visitors are strongly advised to take anti malaria medication commencing two weeks before travel as malaria is common in Tanzania. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, polio and typhoid are also recommended. In addition, all visitors are required to have a visa except citizens of some African and commonwealth countries. It is advisable to obtain visa’s in advance from Tanzania Embassies and High Commissions as some airlines may require it before allowing you to board. For citizens of a few selected countries, visas can also be issued on arrival at Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro international airports and at the Namanga Gate on the Kenya /Tanzania border.

Dar es Salaam can be reached through regional hubs at Nairobi and Johannesburg and to a lesser extent Addis Ababa. The airport is also accessed from other Tanzania airports that serve domestic as well as international flights. These include Kilimanjaro International Airport and Dodoma airport among many others. There is a ferry service between Mombasa in Kenya and Dar es Salaam.

Visitors to Dar es Salaam are advised that taxis moving passengers around the city have no meters and charge a standard fee per journey inside the city centre. As for ferries to Zanzibar, there is a choice of 4 boats- a hydrofoil, a catamaran and 2 ordinary ferry boats. Yellow fever vaccination certification is a must before boarding for Zanzibar. A port charge of US$ 5 is added to the boat fare.

And like the rest of Tanzania, Dar es salaam never really gets cold and light clothing is recommended. Average daily temperatures hover in the 30°C range with October to March being the hottest period. Warmer clothing such as sweaters is however necessary to get you through the evenings and early mornings if you are heading for the highlands. Short sleeve shirts, shorts and trouser for men are sufficient and so are short sleeve blouses, slacks and skirts for the ladies. Nudity is totally unacceptable in the whole country.

================================ Destination Facts: Tanzania ================================ Fact Sheet with info on: land area, population, capital city and other major towns, peoples, language, religion, government, time zones, currency, electricity and weights & measures. http://www.africapoint.com/destinations/tanzania.asp?ezsite=56

============================== Travel Basics: Tanzania ==============================

Useful country travel info and tips on: health, visas, peoples & culture, communications, accommodation, money, climate, international & local travel, travel insurance, and what to wear. http://www.africapoint.com/travel/tanzania.asp?ezsite=56

=========================== Travel Guides: Tanzania ===========================

Tanzania Tourist Board- Official site of the Tanzania Tourist Board providing the most comprehensive online source of information on travel to and around South Africa.

Http://www.tanzaniatourismboard.com

Dar es Salaam Travel Guide– Objective information on Dar es Salaam travel, including restaurants, accommodation and tours.

Http://www.world66.com/africa/tanzania/daressalaam

If I had to survive in the bush, I’d kill a buffalo,” announces my son, Michael, aged 19.
“How?”
“I’d get a huge stone and crash it on his head.”
The young Masai warrior who is with us begins to laugh, long and deep. This is clearly the funniest thing he’s heard in a while. It’s like a Masai telling us he would survive in London by asking a passer-by for £100. “The buffalo weighs two tons,” our guide chortles. He turns the idea over in his head. “Hit a buffalo on the head with a stone…” he repeats delightedly.
Some trips are holidays and some are much more than that – voyages into another way of thinking and feeling. A journey into the Tanzanian bush is a journey into another dimension. From the threadbare airport at Arusha, our small plane wafted Michael and me to Manyara airstrip; from there, we were driven to the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. The first glimpse takes your breath away. Ngorongoro is an 11-mile-wide volcanic caldera with a lake shimmering in the middle. Its 1,600ft walls turn the crater into an amphitheatre, a savage playpen for the animals that gather there to feed, drink – and be eaten.
The lodge is a hobbitlike community of thatched cottages, right on the rim. Step inside, though, and operatic silk curtains sweep down beside french windows overlooking the crater. There are immense beds, opulent in purple; the tissue box is made of porcupine quills; crystal beads hang from a chandelier. And when we returned from our first game drive, my “butler” had run an aromatic bath drenched in rose petals. I sank blissfully into the bubbles.
Down in the crater, the animals are so used to vehicles it was as though we were entirely invisible. Magical, bizarre, deeply luxurious, this is an astounding place. There are hippos, black rhinos, elephants and many thousand zebras, wildebeests and gazelles. We watched two young lions chase each other across the open plain, giving their deep, vibrant, almost comforting roar.
In the evening, after a dinner to make the gods jealous, we sat in leather chairs by an open fire, drank sherry and played poker – easy to feel like a god here. In the early morning I watched a cloud drift over the crater, while all around our cottage the buffaloes grazed.
THE NEXT leg of our safari was a searing contrast. We took a tiny plane out into the Serengeti, 120 miles from the nearest town, to a tented settlement without running water. This is Tanzania Under Canvas, and it moves every few months to chase the great migration of wildebeests and zebras.
My tent was right on the margins of the camp, and it made me uneasy, especially when I was told nobody had a gun. My whistle and torch didn’t feel like much protection from the lions. Not that staying there is a hardship. Like Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, it is run by CC Africa, and the mischievous camp manager, Bruce, welcomed us into the canvas “living room” erected just a week or two before our arrival, with its crystal glasses, leather-bound books and khaki sofas.
But there really are lions in the camp at night. I would have felt safer sharing a tent with Michael, and Bruce conceded that was perfectly reasonable – because then I would be only half as likely to be attacked. “It isn’t that he’d save you – it’s that while the predators munch on one, the other can escape. It’s the principle behind large herds.”
Later, I read from Out of Africa as I tried to sleep. “The views were immensely wide,” Karen Blixen writes. “Everything you saw made for greatness and freedom. Up in this high air you breathed easily, drawing in a vital assurance and lightness of heart.” On any trip, the best literature of the place intensifies and enlarges your experience. But for all Blixen’s delicacy of language, I still couldn’t sleep.
EARLY NEXT morning we stepped out into the gentle danger of Africa. A red dawn stained the skies, and I felt the space of a whole continent – at once exhilarated and relaxed by the rising murmur of insects, the famous light. That first day we saw a cheetah, a leopard and a pride of lions with their cubs. Most impressive, though, was the thunder of the wildebeests as they stampeded over a hill, carried by dust clouds like an apocalyptic vision. Watching them, I found myself thinking like a lion: here was a banquet it would be impossible ever to finish. Later we witnessed the fear and despair of baby wildebeests parted from their mothers, as vultures went jauntily about their business nearby.
“Where there’s death there’s life,” said Ivan the ranger, matter-of-factly – yet he helped us to save one youngster by encouraging it to follow our vehicle.
But fear is part of the deal here, as I came to understand. Here you are not gods, as you are at the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, and the experience offers a different kind of intensity. Spending all day watching the predators, and most of the night listening to them hunt outside your canvas wall, you soon begin to identify with the primal stimuli of the bush. You forget your wearisome human pride, and lose that sense of difference between man and other animals. I’d expected the worst thing about Tanzania Under Canvas to be the strip of tent separating me and the bush. It turned out to be the best.
From The Sunday TimesJuly 1, 2007; By Sally Emerson

Lodges have come a long way since the early days of safaris, says Lisa Grainger as she selects the best high life amid the wildlife.

Looking through the grainy snaps of my grandparents on safari always makes me smile – and not just because of my grandmother’s leopard-print culottes and ostrich-skin handbag. It’s the absence of comfort: the luggage roped to Land Rovers, the fold-up stools by a fire, the tin mugs, the warm beer, the sausages on sticks.

But then, safari camps in the 1950s were nothing like the African super-camps that have opened in the past year. For a start, they’re not really camps. They’re boutique hotels in the bush, often featuring spas, interior-designed suites, Michelin-star chefs to cook fresh ingredients flown in by private jet, and butlers to deliver it.

It’s not just in South Africa (progenitor of bush glamour) that this sort of safari has evolved. Three months ago in Zambia, two bush houses were opened to accommodate travellers who demand total privacy. In Tanzania, helicopter pads have been built alongside airstrips. In Namibia last year, top American astronomers were flown in to present after-dinner star-talks in the desert. Here are a few of the newest, most exclusive camps on the continent. Prices quoted are per person, per night, on a fully inclusive basis, excluding flights.

Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania

Luxury taken to the utmost. There are just three camps, sleeping a maximum of 56 guests, on this new game reserve and only these visitors have access to the 350,000 acres of grassy plains bordering the Serengeti, the helipad, the 16 polo and thoroughbred horses, the spa, tennis courts, crocquet lawn and the libraries.

Sasakwa Lodge, on the edge of an escarpment, was built in the style of a colonial home – think glossy wooden parquet floors, antiques, grand art, Persian silk carpets and silver, and a private infinity pool with every room. Sabora camp, on the plains, is glam camping taken to extremes. Tents are lined with raw silk, scattered with Persian rugs, and decorated with essentials like wind-up gramophones and silver handmirrors. Beds and baths are adorned with rose petals flown in daily with the seafood.

Reserves of luxury – reproduced from the Telegraph – 21/06/2006 by Lisa Grainger